Custom ordering pointe shoes may seem like a daunting task to some, but in reality, once you understand the lingo, the process is really quite simple.

Usually, most dancers think that special ordered shoes are only created in special circumstances or that you have to be a professional to have them made. The truth is that anyone can have a specially made shoe for their feet. Some companies have different rules as to how many pairs, colors, and other options can be ordered at a time at a specific price.

The thing to remember is to try as many different brands and styles of shoes you can before special ordering. That way you know what options and needs you want addressed in your shoes.

In order to properly understand the terminology, one must first understand how a pointe shoe is constructed.

Pointe Shoe Terms and How They Correspond To The Diagram

Binding: the fabric channel through which the drawstring runs
Box or Block: the stiff toe cup that encases the toes
Box Liner: the soft fabric that lines the inside of the box
Girth: the measurement around the widest part of the foot, at the metatarsals at the ball of the foot
High Profile: a pointe shoe box, often cylindrical, with a relatively large space between the outer sole and the top of the foot
Low Profile: a pointe shoe box with a generally flat shape and a relatively small space between the outer sole and the top of the box
Outer Sole: the bottom part of the shoe, usually made of synthetic or leather, which is in contact with the floor when the dancer stands in the normal flat position
Platform: the part of the pointe shoe on which the dancer stands when en pointe
Quarter: the part of the shoe covering the sides and heel of the foot
Shank: the stiff insole that provides support
Sockliner: the soft fabric that lies directly underneath the foot and runs the length of the shoe
Throat: the opening of the shoe nearest the toes
Vamp: the part of the shoe that covers the tops of the toes and the foot
Winged Box: a box with extra-long, stiff sides

Now that the general construction of a pointe has been defined, now we cna talk about how to go about special ordering pointe shoes. First of all, remember that there will be an added fee for special orders and each manufacturer had its own idea about the cost of the undertaking. Currently, the average cost is about 10 - 15 USD. Custom shoe orders for American shoes usually take 2 - 6 weeks, while waiting for foreign shoes can be as long as 52 weeks. Make sure to check the current estimated delievery period when placing your order.

Ideally, a dancer should visit a store with fitters ecperienced in designing custom orders in the brand of his or her choice. If a shop near you cannot do the custom order you want, orders for custom shoes can be placed by mail by sending tracings of both feet and a detailed description of the reasons for wanting the special order. Describe the problems you are having with stock shoes and any unusual features of the foot like long toes, a high arch, bunions, and so on.

The following features can usually be addressed by most pointe makers:

Color:Black, White, and custom dyed to match a fabric swatch.
Size:In addition to standard sizes and half sizes, shoes can be ordered in 3/4 sizes as a special order. A shoe can also be ordered with a combination last, which means that the heel can be one size and the ball, or center of the box, another.
Widths: AA and EE can be made as well as different widths for each foot.
Vamp Lengths: Vamps can be 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" shorter or longer than standard. Shape can be either V shaped or U shaped.
Back: The back of the shoe cna be cut 1/8" or 1/4" higher or lower than standard.
Sides:The sides can be cut 1/8" tp 1/2" higher or lower than standard.
Drawstring:The drawstring can be placed on the side and elastic can be specified.
Toe Shape:Toes can be ordered squarer, not as tapered, more tapered or flatter than standard
Pleats:pleats can be ordered longer or shorter than standard. Note: A shoe with longer pleats will have a shorter outer sole.
Boxing:A shoe can be ordered with a hard box. The "official" terminology for this is a shoe with a double "c" toe. A shoe can be ordered with a lighter box. The terminology for this is a shoe with no "c" piece. A shoe can be ordered with 3/4 boxing, which means there is boxing 34 of the way to the drawstring, or half-boxing, which means there is boxing half of the way to the drawstring. The wings can be strengthened and extended down the sides of the shoes for added support- this is also called a "wing block".
Shanks: A shoe can be double shanked which means that the shoe is made with a shank twice the strength of standard. A shank can be ordered halfed- a shank half as long as standard, or 3/4 - a shank 3/4 as long as standard. Shanks can also e ordered with additional reinforcement.
Materials:Usually, satin, canvas, and leather.



As your feet will change and strengthen during your years en pointe, it is only natural that your needs for a shoe will change, pay careful attention to your needs. Remember, your feet are your instruments, keep them in tune.

Note: Remember that once a special order is made, it cannot be canceled. What you order is yours, no negotiations.

Sources:

The Pointe Book: Janice Barringer and Sarah Schlesinger

Pointe Magazine:"Made To Order", Jannifer Sandoval, November/December 2001.







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